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#biokovo Ron Sexsmith for the win.

stage 9 of the Via Adriatica. 88km 3650m⬆️ The stage starts at Malacka above Split and circles around Kastela and Split and Klis and finally the ridge to Brela. A picture-perfect town with gravel beaches and shady Aleppo pines, a world away from the frankly terrifying block of mountain overlooking it -The Biokovo Massif.After being inland for almost all of stage 8 it was a welcome return to the views of the Adriatic. The mountains aren't high. You never break 800m but the elevation gain is tasty enough. The final day supposedly going down, was almost 900m. Eight peaks to complete. I bailed out of the last one because of wind and rain and was glad of it!It's a brilliant pocket stage to do. A quick taxi from split to Malacka and off you go. Never too far from a town and surprisingly diverse. Difficult Karst underfoot at times but also beautiful meandering walks by the Cetina river. Lush Oak and pine and high meadow in its prime in May. It changes all the time, never grinding it out for too long. The sound of the nightingales and Golden Orioles, the Ravens the bells from the valleys and the Owls at night. Snake count -3. The first time in this trail I was able to stop twice during the day and have lunch in a town. So civilised. A bed last night and tonight waiting for the weather to break for the very daunting and entirely different stage10 . Biokovo. I've frightened myself enough with the reports. Time to see for myself.

Have to say goodbye to John Booth, last of the drovers. He passed away before New Years. He farmed his beloved cattle high in the Nephins and looked after them like children. All individually named. He counted them every day rain or shine. 14 in all. His favourite 'Granny'. If you were high up yourself you could count them for him, save him the trip and drink tea and chat and smoke in the blue lodge. He always had a smile and cheered you up when the fishing was poor. He knew the river like the back of his hand and loved it. Many's the angler he rescued from violent spates, carrying them on his back on paths only he knew. He did the same for @gemmafullam one time, carrying her along a rocky stretch while I was rushing ahead to the next pool. A real gentleman. His brother Tom will look after the cattle, but the river will be missing something this year. Tight lines John. It's been a pleasure.

Have to say goodbye to John Booth, last of the drovers. He passed away before New Years. He farmed his beloved cattle high in the Nephins and looked after them like children. All individually named. He counted them every day rain or shine. 14 in all. His favourite 'Granny'. If you were high up yourself you could count them for him, save him the trip and drink tea and chat and smoke in the blue lodge. He always had a smile and cheered you up when the fishing was poor. He knew the river like the back of his hand and loved it. Many's the angler he rescued from violent spates, carrying them on his back on paths only he knew. He did the same for @gemmafullam one time, carrying her along a rocky stretch while I was rushing ahead to the next pool. A real gentleman. His brother Tom will look after the cattle, but the river will be missing something this year. Tight lines John. It's been a pleasure.

I thought I knew a lot about live ambient sound recording, until I met Bob on an RTE shoot with Red Shoe Productions during our musical fusion with Liam, instant humility and a good laugh watching a real master at work.

Well able to take a snap is @donalhmurphy

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Year Four on this interminable and unforgiving trail! The Via Adriatica. I started at the Dragon where I left off last year-Tulove Grede and had 15km to finish Stage 5 and begin Stages 6/7/8. There are 13 in all. Stage 6 brought me through the beautiful Krka river canyon. My first river in the entire walk and I would have two more in the next two days. Miraculous stuff to see a gushing mountain spring in such an arid country. The few miles kind of on the flat besides more rocks and a tiny via ferrata was really like a paradise, a dream. Stage 7 was a hefty one taking in Dinara, the highest in Croatia at 1840 I think. The day before was dodgy enough with heavy rain and thunder and lightening. After a nerve wracking encounter with five snarling giants of dogs the owner, a shepherd called George or 'Djuko' took me in and gave me a bed for the night in his caravan and a visit to some friends where I had the finest meal of the entire trip. Cevapi and beef and lamb and the nicest roast pepper I've ever had. Feasting it instead of listening to the rain and thunder from inside the tent. 7 was a tough stage with 100km and 4500m of elevation. One day freezing and the next blistering. Eventually reaching Hravce and the short but mentally challenging stage 8 to Split. All in all about 300km and 7-8000m of elevation. Only 400km to go. Next year!
Croatia is staggeringly,stunningly beautiful. Very strange in parts. Fairytale-like with strange beings inhabiting it. Some places feel so odd. I had the feeling of the 'Third man' the first year during a bad storm. The presence and the guiding hand. There's so much left to be discovered. Until next year beautiful Hravatska. Hvala🙏

Into the Loam – a new album by Cormac Begley and myself – will be released on 6 June.

We’re launching it that evening at Vicar Street, Dublin. Our fathers, Mick O’Connor and Breanndán Ó Beaglaoich, will also launch their books:

In Safe Hands: An Illustrated History of Irish Traditional Music in Dublin (1893–1970)

Breanndán Ó Beaglaoich: Clann na Seanamhuintire

🎟️ Tickets: vicarstreet.com
Pre-order the album:
liamoconnor.bandcamp.com
cormacbegley.bandcamp.com

One of the tracks, Bogadh Faoi Shúsa, is a Munster dance tune known to P.W. Joyce in the 1830s and later published in Old Irish Folk Music and Songs (1909). The air before and after it is related to The Flower of Magherally-O, a song associated with Cathal McConnell.

Video by Donal Glackin. Sound by Bob Brennan.

#IntoTheLoam #BogadhFaoiShúsa #IrishMusic #AlbumLaunch #VicarStreet #CormacBegley #LiamOConnor

No Gong this time but a wonderful night with @gemmafullam at the IFTA's. Great to be nominated. Special thanks to the best boomer in the country- Luke McGinley and @dylanlewisohn for getting us there. Power to the work. 🫡

Sound Team Obituary S2. Last day in Ballyshannon. Thanks to a great team @therealluke80 @dylanlewisohn Photo by the heart and soul of the whole kaboodle @riorosanio It's been a blast.💥

Days 8/9/10 Stage 5 Via Adriatica. Croatia.
So there's been only the odd time where there is signal to catch up for the last few days. Rereading The Name of The Rose at night in the shelters high in the Velebit. Last few nights I've been alone, with only the squealing of the super cute mice in Struge shelter to keep me company. Yes they are company!
A really difficult stage to Visovac shelter where I did the last kilometre or so through the beech woods with a head torch. Knowing only that going up was the right way to go. Reaching the shelter to three pals from Zagreb and their dogs and the tomatoes and bacon and Rakia. Nature is a great filter. After 5minutes everybody talking naturally and exchanging stories. After three years I feel I'm only learning about Croatia now. Such humble welcomes and the taste of a homegrown tomato after freeze dried food!
The next day was hard. The climb to Vagandski and a beautiful 10km trail to another gem Sveto Brdo at 1751m. Two peregrines fighting it out as I ate Dutch sweets with a lovely couple who had driven from the Netherlands. It's always the people you meet. I stayed down on Zlatino hut on my own before the soul destroying 1000m descent to a hot shower and a steak.

The Velebit I had so feared turned out to be exactly that . There isn't a hundred yards in 90 km on the flat. But the moments of sheer clarity and unbounded love of the world made it all worthwhile. You only have yourself and hopefully enough water! I've been rereading Cheryl Strayed's wonderful account of the PCT. She said the trail had 'shattered and sheltered' her . A better description is beyond me.

Thanks to all the little creatures that kept me company on this trip. The bully boy Nuthatches. The simple call of the Willow Warbler in the morning. I passed a lot of beehives today and then the unmistakeable referees whistle of a Bee -eater soon after. The panicked branch breaking of a started deer. The wonder of a bee and butterfly laden clump of wild mint. It could be worse!!
Until next year. With the help of God I'll be back for more torture.🙂

Days 8/9/10 Stage 5 Via Adriatica. Croatia.
So there's been only the odd time where there is signal to catch up for the last few days. Rereading The Name of The Rose at night in the shelters high in the Velebit. Last few nights I've been alone, with only the squealing of the super cute mice in Struge shelter to keep me company. Yes they are company!
A really difficult stage to Visovac shelter where I did the last kilometre or so through the beech woods with a head torch. Knowing only that going up was the right way to go. Reaching the shelter to three pals from Zagreb and their dogs and the tomatoes and bacon and Rakia. Nature is a great filter. After 5minutes everybody talking naturally and exchanging stories. After three years I feel I'm only learning about Croatia now. Such humble welcomes and the taste of a homegrown tomato after freeze dried food!
The next day was hard. The climb to Vagandski and a beautiful 10km trail to another gem Sveto Brdo at 1751m. Two peregrines fighting it out as I ate Dutch sweets with a lovely couple who had driven from the Netherlands. It's always the people you meet. I stayed down on Zlatino hut on my own before the soul destroying 1000m descent to a hot shower and a steak.

The Velebit I had so feared turned out to be exactly that . There isn't a hundred yards in 90 km on the flat. But the moments of sheer clarity and unbounded love of the world made it all worthwhile. You only have yourself and hopefully enough water! I've been rereading Cheryl Strayed's wonderful account of the PCT. She said the trail had 'shattered and sheltered' her . A better description is beyond me.

Thanks to all the little creatures that kept me company on this trip. The bully boy Nuthatches. The simple call of the Willow Warbler in the morning. I passed a lot of beehives today and then the unmistakeable referees whistle of a Bee -eater soon after. The panicked branch breaking of a started deer. The wonder of a bee and butterfly laden clump of wild mint. It could be worse!!
Until next year. With the help of God I'll be back for more torture.🙂

Days 8/9/10 Stage 5 Via Adriatica. Croatia.
So there's been only the odd time where there is signal to catch up for the last few days. Rereading The Name of The Rose at night in the shelters high in the Velebit. Last few nights I've been alone, with only the squealing of the super cute mice in Struge shelter to keep me company. Yes they are company!
A really difficult stage to Visovac shelter where I did the last kilometre or so through the beech woods with a head torch. Knowing only that going up was the right way to go. Reaching the shelter to three pals from Zagreb and their dogs and the tomatoes and bacon and Rakia. Nature is a great filter. After 5minutes everybody talking naturally and exchanging stories. After three years I feel I'm only learning about Croatia now. Such humble welcomes and the taste of a homegrown tomato after freeze dried food!
The next day was hard. The climb to Vagandski and a beautiful 10km trail to another gem Sveto Brdo at 1751m. Two peregrines fighting it out as I ate Dutch sweets with a lovely couple who had driven from the Netherlands. It's always the people you meet. I stayed down on Zlatino hut on my own before the soul destroying 1000m descent to a hot shower and a steak.

The Velebit I had so feared turned out to be exactly that . There isn't a hundred yards in 90 km on the flat. But the moments of sheer clarity and unbounded love of the world made it all worthwhile. You only have yourself and hopefully enough water! I've been rereading Cheryl Strayed's wonderful account of the PCT. She said the trail had 'shattered and sheltered' her . A better description is beyond me.

Thanks to all the little creatures that kept me company on this trip. The bully boy Nuthatches. The simple call of the Willow Warbler in the morning. I passed a lot of beehives today and then the unmistakeable referees whistle of a Bee -eater soon after. The panicked branch breaking of a started deer. The wonder of a bee and butterfly laden clump of wild mint. It could be worse!!
Until next year. With the help of God I'll be back for more torture.🙂

Days 8/9/10 Stage 5 Via Adriatica. Croatia.
So there's been only the odd time where there is signal to catch up for the last few days. Rereading The Name of The Rose at night in the shelters high in the Velebit. Last few nights I've been alone, with only the squealing of the super cute mice in Struge shelter to keep me company. Yes they are company!
A really difficult stage to Visovac shelter where I did the last kilometre or so through the beech woods with a head torch. Knowing only that going up was the right way to go. Reaching the shelter to three pals from Zagreb and their dogs and the tomatoes and bacon and Rakia. Nature is a great filter. After 5minutes everybody talking naturally and exchanging stories. After three years I feel I'm only learning about Croatia now. Such humble welcomes and the taste of a homegrown tomato after freeze dried food!
The next day was hard. The climb to Vagandski and a beautiful 10km trail to another gem Sveto Brdo at 1751m. Two peregrines fighting it out as I ate Dutch sweets with a lovely couple who had driven from the Netherlands. It's always the people you meet. I stayed down on Zlatino hut on my own before the soul destroying 1000m descent to a hot shower and a steak.

The Velebit I had so feared turned out to be exactly that . There isn't a hundred yards in 90 km on the flat. But the moments of sheer clarity and unbounded love of the world made it all worthwhile. You only have yourself and hopefully enough water! I've been rereading Cheryl Strayed's wonderful account of the PCT. She said the trail had 'shattered and sheltered' her . A better description is beyond me.

Thanks to all the little creatures that kept me company on this trip. The bully boy Nuthatches. The simple call of the Willow Warbler in the morning. I passed a lot of beehives today and then the unmistakeable referees whistle of a Bee -eater soon after. The panicked branch breaking of a started deer. The wonder of a bee and butterfly laden clump of wild mint. It could be worse!!
Until next year. With the help of God I'll be back for more torture.🙂

Days 8/9/10 Stage 5 Via Adriatica. Croatia.
So there's been only the odd time where there is signal to catch up for the last few days. Rereading The Name of The Rose at night in the shelters high in the Velebit. Last few nights I've been alone, with only the squealing of the super cute mice in Struge shelter to keep me company. Yes they are company!
A really difficult stage to Visovac shelter where I did the last kilometre or so through the beech woods with a head torch. Knowing only that going up was the right way to go. Reaching the shelter to three pals from Zagreb and their dogs and the tomatoes and bacon and Rakia. Nature is a great filter. After 5minutes everybody talking naturally and exchanging stories. After three years I feel I'm only learning about Croatia now. Such humble welcomes and the taste of a homegrown tomato after freeze dried food!
The next day was hard. The climb to Vagandski and a beautiful 10km trail to another gem Sveto Brdo at 1751m. Two peregrines fighting it out as I ate Dutch sweets with a lovely couple who had driven from the Netherlands. It's always the people you meet. I stayed down on Zlatino hut on my own before the soul destroying 1000m descent to a hot shower and a steak.

The Velebit I had so feared turned out to be exactly that . There isn't a hundred yards in 90 km on the flat. But the moments of sheer clarity and unbounded love of the world made it all worthwhile. You only have yourself and hopefully enough water! I've been rereading Cheryl Strayed's wonderful account of the PCT. She said the trail had 'shattered and sheltered' her . A better description is beyond me.

Thanks to all the little creatures that kept me company on this trip. The bully boy Nuthatches. The simple call of the Willow Warbler in the morning. I passed a lot of beehives today and then the unmistakeable referees whistle of a Bee -eater soon after. The panicked branch breaking of a started deer. The wonder of a bee and butterfly laden clump of wild mint. It could be worse!!
Until next year. With the help of God I'll be back for more torture.🙂

Days 8/9/10 Stage 5 Via Adriatica. Croatia.
So there's been only the odd time where there is signal to catch up for the last few days. Rereading The Name of The Rose at night in the shelters high in the Velebit. Last few nights I've been alone, with only the squealing of the super cute mice in Struge shelter to keep me company. Yes they are company!
A really difficult stage to Visovac shelter where I did the last kilometre or so through the beech woods with a head torch. Knowing only that going up was the right way to go. Reaching the shelter to three pals from Zagreb and their dogs and the tomatoes and bacon and Rakia. Nature is a great filter. After 5minutes everybody talking naturally and exchanging stories. After three years I feel I'm only learning about Croatia now. Such humble welcomes and the taste of a homegrown tomato after freeze dried food!
The next day was hard. The climb to Vagandski and a beautiful 10km trail to another gem Sveto Brdo at 1751m. Two peregrines fighting it out as I ate Dutch sweets with a lovely couple who had driven from the Netherlands. It's always the people you meet. I stayed down on Zlatino hut on my own before the soul destroying 1000m descent to a hot shower and a steak.

The Velebit I had so feared turned out to be exactly that . There isn't a hundred yards in 90 km on the flat. But the moments of sheer clarity and unbounded love of the world made it all worthwhile. You only have yourself and hopefully enough water! I've been rereading Cheryl Strayed's wonderful account of the PCT. She said the trail had 'shattered and sheltered' her . A better description is beyond me.

Thanks to all the little creatures that kept me company on this trip. The bully boy Nuthatches. The simple call of the Willow Warbler in the morning. I passed a lot of beehives today and then the unmistakeable referees whistle of a Bee -eater soon after. The panicked branch breaking of a started deer. The wonder of a bee and butterfly laden clump of wild mint. It could be worse!!
Until next year. With the help of God I'll be back for more torture.🙂

Days 8/9/10 Stage 5 Via Adriatica. Croatia.
So there's been only the odd time where there is signal to catch up for the last few days. Rereading The Name of The Rose at night in the shelters high in the Velebit. Last few nights I've been alone, with only the squealing of the super cute mice in Struge shelter to keep me company. Yes they are company!
A really difficult stage to Visovac shelter where I did the last kilometre or so through the beech woods with a head torch. Knowing only that going up was the right way to go. Reaching the shelter to three pals from Zagreb and their dogs and the tomatoes and bacon and Rakia. Nature is a great filter. After 5minutes everybody talking naturally and exchanging stories. After three years I feel I'm only learning about Croatia now. Such humble welcomes and the taste of a homegrown tomato after freeze dried food!
The next day was hard. The climb to Vagandski and a beautiful 10km trail to another gem Sveto Brdo at 1751m. Two peregrines fighting it out as I ate Dutch sweets with a lovely couple who had driven from the Netherlands. It's always the people you meet. I stayed down on Zlatino hut on my own before the soul destroying 1000m descent to a hot shower and a steak.

The Velebit I had so feared turned out to be exactly that . There isn't a hundred yards in 90 km on the flat. But the moments of sheer clarity and unbounded love of the world made it all worthwhile. You only have yourself and hopefully enough water! I've been rereading Cheryl Strayed's wonderful account of the PCT. She said the trail had 'shattered and sheltered' her . A better description is beyond me.

Thanks to all the little creatures that kept me company on this trip. The bully boy Nuthatches. The simple call of the Willow Warbler in the morning. I passed a lot of beehives today and then the unmistakeable referees whistle of a Bee -eater soon after. The panicked branch breaking of a started deer. The wonder of a bee and butterfly laden clump of wild mint. It could be worse!!
Until next year. With the help of God I'll be back for more torture.🙂

Day 6/7 stage 5 Via Adriatica.
The end of stage 4 brings you to Baske Ontarije where there is a campsite with showers and a hostel down the road where I had 'Steak' and chips and a crisp Velebitski beer. I said goodbye to Kamil and Karolina and Chase. They went to resupply in Karlobad. The stage from BO to Sugurska is a kind of transitory stage. The track is poor, deep in the woods, it's humid and oppressive, hard to find the trail and I must have climbed over 200 fallen trees. You emerge after grinding it out with the reward of Sugurska Duliba. If it was an AirBandB it would be worth a fortune. A nice welcome from a guy from Zagreb. We had a great conversation about the mountains and the differences between the Northern and Southern Velebit. Yesterday was the first day my calves didn't hurt in the morning. I managed 1167up and 19km. It was hot and 'Daddy's hut' complete with resident snake was my break before a final push to Visovac hut. The last few Km with a headtorch. A well appointed hut and three guys from Zagreb with some home grown tomatoes and pork and Rakia. Their dogs resting after a tough day. One guy had come from the coast. 2500m and 37km. It took me 4 hrs to do the final stage yesterday. He had done it in 2.5. Absolute machine. He is already racing ahead. The Velebit are awe inspiring. Like a western movie set. They made 'Winnetou' here back in the day. It's time to saddle up and head for Visočica at 1619m. In the high country now. ❤️

Day 6/7 stage 5 Via Adriatica.
The end of stage 4 brings you to Baske Ontarije where there is a campsite with showers and a hostel down the road where I had 'Steak' and chips and a crisp Velebitski beer. I said goodbye to Kamil and Karolina and Chase. They went to resupply in Karlobad. The stage from BO to Sugurska is a kind of transitory stage. The track is poor, deep in the woods, it's humid and oppressive, hard to find the trail and I must have climbed over 200 fallen trees. You emerge after grinding it out with the reward of Sugurska Duliba. If it was an AirBandB it would be worth a fortune. A nice welcome from a guy from Zagreb. We had a great conversation about the mountains and the differences between the Northern and Southern Velebit. Yesterday was the first day my calves didn't hurt in the morning. I managed 1167up and 19km. It was hot and 'Daddy's hut' complete with resident snake was my break before a final push to Visovac hut. The last few Km with a headtorch. A well appointed hut and three guys from Zagreb with some home grown tomatoes and pork and Rakia. Their dogs resting after a tough day. One guy had come from the coast. 2500m and 37km. It took me 4 hrs to do the final stage yesterday. He had done it in 2.5. Absolute machine. He is already racing ahead. The Velebit are awe inspiring. Like a western movie set. They made 'Winnetou' here back in the day. It's time to saddle up and head for Visočica at 1619m. In the high country now. ❤️

Day 6/7 stage 5 Via Adriatica.
The end of stage 4 brings you to Baske Ontarije where there is a campsite with showers and a hostel down the road where I had 'Steak' and chips and a crisp Velebitski beer. I said goodbye to Kamil and Karolina and Chase. They went to resupply in Karlobad. The stage from BO to Sugurska is a kind of transitory stage. The track is poor, deep in the woods, it's humid and oppressive, hard to find the trail and I must have climbed over 200 fallen trees. You emerge after grinding it out with the reward of Sugurska Duliba. If it was an AirBandB it would be worth a fortune. A nice welcome from a guy from Zagreb. We had a great conversation about the mountains and the differences between the Northern and Southern Velebit. Yesterday was the first day my calves didn't hurt in the morning. I managed 1167up and 19km. It was hot and 'Daddy's hut' complete with resident snake was my break before a final push to Visovac hut. The last few Km with a headtorch. A well appointed hut and three guys from Zagreb with some home grown tomatoes and pork and Rakia. Their dogs resting after a tough day. One guy had come from the coast. 2500m and 37km. It took me 4 hrs to do the final stage yesterday. He had done it in 2.5. Absolute machine. He is already racing ahead. The Velebit are awe inspiring. Like a western movie set. They made 'Winnetou' here back in the day. It's time to saddle up and head for Visočica at 1619m. In the high country now. ❤️

Day 6/7 stage 5 Via Adriatica.
The end of stage 4 brings you to Baske Ontarije where there is a campsite with showers and a hostel down the road where I had 'Steak' and chips and a crisp Velebitski beer. I said goodbye to Kamil and Karolina and Chase. They went to resupply in Karlobad. The stage from BO to Sugurska is a kind of transitory stage. The track is poor, deep in the woods, it's humid and oppressive, hard to find the trail and I must have climbed over 200 fallen trees. You emerge after grinding it out with the reward of Sugurska Duliba. If it was an AirBandB it would be worth a fortune. A nice welcome from a guy from Zagreb. We had a great conversation about the mountains and the differences between the Northern and Southern Velebit. Yesterday was the first day my calves didn't hurt in the morning. I managed 1167up and 19km. It was hot and 'Daddy's hut' complete with resident snake was my break before a final push to Visovac hut. The last few Km with a headtorch. A well appointed hut and three guys from Zagreb with some home grown tomatoes and pork and Rakia. Their dogs resting after a tough day. One guy had come from the coast. 2500m and 37km. It took me 4 hrs to do the final stage yesterday. He had done it in 2.5. Absolute machine. He is already racing ahead. The Velebit are awe inspiring. Like a western movie set. They made 'Winnetou' here back in the day. It's time to saddle up and head for Visočica at 1619m. In the high country now. ❤️

Day 6/7 stage 5 Via Adriatica.
The end of stage 4 brings you to Baske Ontarije where there is a campsite with showers and a hostel down the road where I had 'Steak' and chips and a crisp Velebitski beer. I said goodbye to Kamil and Karolina and Chase. They went to resupply in Karlobad. The stage from BO to Sugurska is a kind of transitory stage. The track is poor, deep in the woods, it's humid and oppressive, hard to find the trail and I must have climbed over 200 fallen trees. You emerge after grinding it out with the reward of Sugurska Duliba. If it was an AirBandB it would be worth a fortune. A nice welcome from a guy from Zagreb. We had a great conversation about the mountains and the differences between the Northern and Southern Velebit. Yesterday was the first day my calves didn't hurt in the morning. I managed 1167up and 19km. It was hot and 'Daddy's hut' complete with resident snake was my break before a final push to Visovac hut. The last few Km with a headtorch. A well appointed hut and three guys from Zagreb with some home grown tomatoes and pork and Rakia. Their dogs resting after a tough day. One guy had come from the coast. 2500m and 37km. It took me 4 hrs to do the final stage yesterday. He had done it in 2.5. Absolute machine. He is already racing ahead. The Velebit are awe inspiring. Like a western movie set. They made 'Winnetou' here back in the day. It's time to saddle up and head for Visočica at 1619m. In the high country now. ❤️

Day 6/7 stage 5 Via Adriatica.
The end of stage 4 brings you to Baske Ontarije where there is a campsite with showers and a hostel down the road where I had 'Steak' and chips and a crisp Velebitski beer. I said goodbye to Kamil and Karolina and Chase. They went to resupply in Karlobad. The stage from BO to Sugurska is a kind of transitory stage. The track is poor, deep in the woods, it's humid and oppressive, hard to find the trail and I must have climbed over 200 fallen trees. You emerge after grinding it out with the reward of Sugurska Duliba. If it was an AirBandB it would be worth a fortune. A nice welcome from a guy from Zagreb. We had a great conversation about the mountains and the differences between the Northern and Southern Velebit. Yesterday was the first day my calves didn't hurt in the morning. I managed 1167up and 19km. It was hot and 'Daddy's hut' complete with resident snake was my break before a final push to Visovac hut. The last few Km with a headtorch. A well appointed hut and three guys from Zagreb with some home grown tomatoes and pork and Rakia. Their dogs resting after a tough day. One guy had come from the coast. 2500m and 37km. It took me 4 hrs to do the final stage yesterday. He had done it in 2.5. Absolute machine. He is already racing ahead. The Velebit are awe inspiring. Like a western movie set. They made 'Winnetou' here back in the day. It's time to saddle up and head for Visočica at 1619m. In the high country now. ❤️

Day 6/7 stage 5 Via Adriatica.
The end of stage 4 brings you to Baske Ontarije where there is a campsite with showers and a hostel down the road where I had 'Steak' and chips and a crisp Velebitski beer. I said goodbye to Kamil and Karolina and Chase. They went to resupply in Karlobad. The stage from BO to Sugurska is a kind of transitory stage. The track is poor, deep in the woods, it's humid and oppressive, hard to find the trail and I must have climbed over 200 fallen trees. You emerge after grinding it out with the reward of Sugurska Duliba. If it was an AirBandB it would be worth a fortune. A nice welcome from a guy from Zagreb. We had a great conversation about the mountains and the differences between the Northern and Southern Velebit. Yesterday was the first day my calves didn't hurt in the morning. I managed 1167up and 19km. It was hot and 'Daddy's hut' complete with resident snake was my break before a final push to Visovac hut. The last few Km with a headtorch. A well appointed hut and three guys from Zagreb with some home grown tomatoes and pork and Rakia. Their dogs resting after a tough day. One guy had come from the coast. 2500m and 37km. It took me 4 hrs to do the final stage yesterday. He had done it in 2.5. Absolute machine. He is already racing ahead. The Velebit are awe inspiring. Like a western movie set. They made 'Winnetou' here back in the day. It's time to saddle up and head for Visočica at 1619m. In the high country now. ❤️

Day 6/7 stage 5 Via Adriatica.
The end of stage 4 brings you to Baske Ontarije where there is a campsite with showers and a hostel down the road where I had 'Steak' and chips and a crisp Velebitski beer. I said goodbye to Kamil and Karolina and Chase. They went to resupply in Karlobad. The stage from BO to Sugurska is a kind of transitory stage. The track is poor, deep in the woods, it's humid and oppressive, hard to find the trail and I must have climbed over 200 fallen trees. You emerge after grinding it out with the reward of Sugurska Duliba. If it was an AirBandB it would be worth a fortune. A nice welcome from a guy from Zagreb. We had a great conversation about the mountains and the differences between the Northern and Southern Velebit. Yesterday was the first day my calves didn't hurt in the morning. I managed 1167up and 19km. It was hot and 'Daddy's hut' complete with resident snake was my break before a final push to Visovac hut. The last few Km with a headtorch. A well appointed hut and three guys from Zagreb with some home grown tomatoes and pork and Rakia. Their dogs resting after a tough day. One guy had come from the coast. 2500m and 37km. It took me 4 hrs to do the final stage yesterday. He had done it in 2.5. Absolute machine. He is already racing ahead. The Velebit are awe inspiring. Like a western movie set. They made 'Winnetou' here back in the day. It's time to saddle up and head for Visočica at 1619m. In the high country now. ❤️